女鞋制作流程SHOESCOURSE19-19

1、MERCHANDISING(SHOES) COURSE （跟单之鞋业课程）（跟单之鞋业课程）HANDBAG MANUFACTURE COURSE（鞋业制造课程）Designed by Zoe L& FCONTENTSSpecifications (分类）oDressing oFlat close shoesoFlat sandalSpecifications (分类）oHeel oWedgeoSlipperSpecifications (分类）oBootso10” heighto14” heightShoes manufacture from development to delive

2、ry Red tag sample（大版或红牌版）Revised sample（修改版）Quote price（报价）Proto sample（出初版）Pattern （出纸格）Sketch Drawing，（图纸）PP sample（产前版或绿牌版）Place order（正式订单） sourcingplan（工厂内部物控、采购原料，计划）Process analysis（工艺分析）PP meeting（产前会议）cuttingpre-process arrange（开料，前工序安排） Painting（油边）Assembling（成型）Sole（底部）Upper Gluing（面部）Ski

3、ving（铲皮）Delivery（出货）Packing（包装）cleanfix shapetrimming（清洁，定形，剪线）Procedures for Shoes manufacture （制造流程）（制造流程）Step 1:Prepare for production(第一步：生产准备）第一步：生产准备）o That is prepare working, like sourcing raw material and trim, trim counter, physical and chemicals testing for material and hardware, procedur

4、e planning and analysis.（准备生产原料，生产原料的化学、物理测试，生产计划，生产工艺分析）oRaw material/Trim: Leather, PVC,PU, Fabric, Nylon，Bonded leather （生产主原料/配料有皮，人造革（PVC/PU),布料，尼龙料，再生皮等）oReinforcing material: Suede, Plastic, Nonwoven fabric, leather paper，Nylon, webbing，paper board (补强物料:牛筋皮，杂胶料，不织布，皮糠纸，牛筋尼龙，织带，纸皮）Step 2: Cut

5、ting（第二步，开料）（第二步，开料）oAccording to B.O.M and compare the fact operation to work out the material usage, then arrange the die cut mould, match the directions to cut (if produce leather handbag still need match grain, color and mark a label, then wrap it by lot), etc, please refer below photos for more

6、 details . (根据物料清单和对比实际运作中损耗来算出物料的用量，然后安排打刀模，开料时要分方向来开料，开皮料时，还要配纹配色来开料。皮料开好后。要将配好套的物料编好号码。防止生产过程中弄混淆，另外开的物料要小心保存，如布料是不能折，特别是丝印料要分隔开以免丝印色弄脏料，更多祥情请见以下图片）Step 2: Cutting（第二步：开料（第二步：开料-画好的皮料）画好的皮料）Step 2: Cutting（第二步，开料图片（第二步，开料图片-画皮料）画皮料）Step 2: Cutting（第二步，开料图片（第二步，开料图片-将画好的皮料开裁）将画好的皮料开裁）Step 2: die c

7、ut mould (刀模）刀模）Step 3:Pre-process arrangement（第三步：前序工作安排）（第三步：前序工作安排）oSome parts of shoes must be produce before others procedure, such as embossing, assembling and sewing. （有些零部件是可以先做，如电压，打钉或其它应车的小部件）Step 3:Pre-process arrangement(第三步：前序工作安排图）第三步：前序工作安排图）Step 4:Skiving（第四步，铲皮）（第四步，铲皮）oskive panel

8、to reduce thickness for improving hairy or handfeel or easy working oSkive edge to reduce thickness for easy working and good shape， but pls note, for some area which will be under very high force, after skiving edge, maybe need to add very strong thin nylon reinforcement. （铲皮分为大铲和小铲）铲皮分为大铲和小铲） 大铲是将

9、整个裁片都铲到统一厚度，有时皮没有里布，整个裁片的皮底太毛。需要做大铲是将整个裁片都铲到统一厚度，有时皮没有里布，整个裁片的皮底太毛。需要做大铲处理。将毛底铲干净些。另外有时裁片太厚身，要改进手感，需将整个裁片铲到大铲处理。将毛底铲干净些。另外有时裁片太厚身，要改进手感，需将整个裁片铲到合理厚度。）合理厚度。） 小铲，小铲就铲边位，小铲，小铲就铲边位， 是为了生产过程中易做是为了生产过程中易做(如折边，包边等工序），且外形美观如折边，包边等工序），且外形美观要将皮边位铲薄到适当厚度。有时要留意受边部位不能铲的太薄或铲后需加托要将皮边位铲薄到适当厚度。有时要留意受边部位不能铲的太薄或铲后需加托

10、一层一层薄的尼龙补强。薄的尼龙补强。Step 4:Skiving（第四步，铲皮图）（第四步，铲皮图）Step 5:Gluing(第五步：擦胶水）第五步：擦胶水）oFor some parts need to gluing before folding, sewing and assembling. (有些裁片，部件，五金，在折边，车缝和安装工序前有些裁片，部件，五金，在折边，车缝和安装工序前是要擦胶水工作的。一是使做工方便，另一个是使鞋寿命加长）是要擦胶水工作的。一是使做工方便，另一个是使鞋寿命加长）oGlue have yellow glue, powder glue, milky glue

11、 , 447 glue, A glue, red glue, etc (胶水分为粘性较强的胶水，如黄胶、447胶，A胶，红胶，乳胶粘性次之，粉胶粘性最弱）oFor different raw materials, need to use different glue. Such lining, need to use powder blue, PVC with fabric backing which used as reinforcement, can use milky glue, other reinforcement , use strong adhesive glue. Hardwa

12、re use red glue ( 不同材料要用不同特性的胶水，里布要通常用粉胶，用其他胶水易渗胶。补强料胶水通常用较强的胶水。起针、收尾线头用较强的A胶， 五金常用红胶等，布底的PVC料可用乳胶）Step 5:Gluing (第五步：擦胶水图示）第五步：擦胶水图示）Step 5:Gluing (第五步：擦胶水图示）第五步：擦胶水图示）Step 6:Painting（第六步：油边（第六步：油边）oLike some panel raw edge of handbag (except for folding, jean seam) need to stain some oil. That mea

13、n paint a layer oil, oil color may be match or contrasting color.(有些原边是需要油边效果（但折边和车反除外）Basic operation for painting（基本油边操作）（基本油边操作）oPrimer application (打底）oPaint application （油边）oBuff（打磨，抛光）ContinueBasic operation for painting（油边基本操作）（油边基本操作）o Second paint application, The customer will require the

14、edge painting effect, but the different customer also have different standard. But one point is same that is the edge stain will soften and stick when the temperature is high such as in the summer. so in the season we need to add the proper anti- agent. On the other hand, in the winter, we need to a

15、dd the anti-crack substance duo to the edge painting is easy to crack（不同的客人对油边有不同的要求，主要看不同品牌的价位来定。另外边油在夏天时要耐高温和冬天时要耐低温。所以有时因季节性改变要向边油中加一些防爆防粘剂。冬天加防爆剂，夏天加防粘剂）Basic operation for painting（油边基本操作图片）（油边基本操作图片）Step 7:Sewing（第（第7步：车缝步：车缝）oThe stitching is very important in the shoes production process due

16、 to the complicated structure. before cutting ,so a plan is need to make how to assembling the related component. set the stitching method and quality standard. If the production flow is reasonable, it directly influent the productivity and product quality. (因鞋类复杂的结构，车缝工作是很重要的。在开大货物料前，要就根据所批的样版来计划如何

17、车缝，定下车缝方法和车缝标准。如果车缝流程得当的话。可能大大提高生产效力，并影响产品的质量）1.Flat Bed Sewing Machine（平车）（平车）oMachine sewing garments and others products involve sewing together two or more pieces of flat goods which the top tread interlocks with bobbin thread. It is easy has puckers when sewing some thin material as only a sing

18、le layer of material delivery by bottom feeding.（平车主是靠底部来推动送布料，所以车较厚身料是易起皱，起泡。一般来说，来车是用来车较薄身较轻的里布。）Flat Bed Sewing Machine（平车图）（平车图）2.Upper and Lower Feed Sewing Machine（同步车）（同步车）oThe sewing theory is same as flat sewing machine, different is the method of delivering material. Upper and lower feed s

19、ewing machine is synchronizes the feed of upper and lower layers of material by top and bottom feeding mechanism while sewing inflationary materials and latently movable materials of medium and heavy weight. The sewing effect is very smoothly but sewing the thin material effect is worse than flat se

20、wing machine.(同步车是同平车一样的道理来车原料，不同的是同步车上下同步来送裁片，同步车用来车较厚身和表面不平伏的物料，同步车不适合车薄身，轻身的布料）Upper and Lower Feed Sewing Machine（同步车）（同步车）7.Computer Sewing Machine（电脑车）（电脑车）8. Assembling（装配五金）（装配五金）oAssembling includes all the hardware on the shoes, such as installing magnetic, hardware Logo, eyelet, stud, cha

21、in, O-ring, buckleand so on.（装配包括安装所有的五金，如磁钮，鸡眼，撞钉，链条，圆环，扣等等）Assembling（安装示意图）（安装示意图）Assembling（安装示意图）（安装示意图）9. Quality checks（质量检查）（质量检查）oInclude first product checked, in-line checked and final inspections base on “PP sample”. If there are something is defect, QC should inform all relevant colleag

22、ue and fty to solve it immediately.（质量检果，包括初检，制程检，成品检，检验标准是根据所批的PP版，如发现不良，QC要通所有相关工厂人员和本司相关人员一同来解决问题）10. Packing（包装）（包装）oProcedure include trimming, cleaning, fix shape, stuffing, hanging hangtag, packing, label, storage etc.(此流程包括修剪线头，清洁，定形，包装，挂挂牌，贴标签，入库，检验OK后出货）Packing（包装）（包装）oStorage（仓库库存）Shoes Specific Term（鞋业分类）Shoes terms（专用术语）impression外觀in pair配雙inner booty鞋舌內套inner box label內盒標inner box內盒inner sole中底kid skin小羊皮knee boot長靴knife刀子lace鞋帶lace hole鞋帶孔lacelock眼扣lace loop系帶鞋lac