丝绸工工艺流程

1、丝绸生产基本工艺流程FLOW CHART OF SILK WEAVING桑蚕丝Silk桑蚕丝也称白厂丝、真丝、生丝，属动物蛋白纤维。它由丝素和丝胶组成，其中含丝素72-81%,丝胶19-28%,并含18种氨基酸，是天然绿色环保纤维。常见规格有 19/21D、20/22D 27/29D、40/44D 等。产地为浙江、江苏、四川、山东、广东等地。Raw silk is also called pure silk, machine reeled raw silk. It is composed of 72-81% fibroin and 19-28% sericin. Also, it con te

2、nts 18 amino acids. Therefore, it is an envir onmen tally friendly fiber.Specifications: 19/21D, 20/22D, 27/29D, 40/44D etc.Producing area: Zhejiang, Sichuan, Shandong, Guangdong etc.检测 Yarn Inspection根据国家标准GB1797-2001 对白厂丝的纤度、强力、伸长、抱合、回潮率、清洁、洁净等项目进行检测。质量标准等级分为：B、A、2A、3A、4A、5A、6A。6A为最高等级。Inspect the

3、 fiber size, strength, elongation, cohesion, moisture regain, cleanness and neatness of the silk yarn according to National Standard # GB1797-2001. Quality grades are B, A, 2A, 3A, 4A, 5A, 6A, and 6A is the top grade.浸渍 /标色 Dipping/Coloring其目的是柔软蚕丝的丝胶，以利并捻。用浸渍液（强捻用水化石油、工业皂、水）柔软蚕丝的丝胶（浸渍后约能脱去3%的丝胶）。浸渍

4、纬线通常要18小时，经线40分钟。浸渍的主要方法有机械浸渍、真空浸 渍、手工浸渍三种。标色是为后道工序辨认各种丝的条份、并合数、捻度、捻向、产地和批号等而作的标记。标色是在浸渍时同时进行的，其使用的染料在精炼时将全部褪色，且不留痕迹。Purpose of dipping is to soften sericin of raw silk by using some agents so that it is easy to twist （Sericin will be degumed by 3%） . It usually takes 18 hours for warp yarn and 40 m

5、inutes for weft yarn.There usually are three methods of clipping: mechanical dipping, vacuum clipping and hand dipping. Coloring is just to ide ntify the size, ply, twist, twist di recti on, produci ng area and lot of silk yarn. It is processed while dippi ng and the colors used in this stage will b

6、e taken off when degumming.烘十 /晾十 Drying/Airing浸渍或只着色的各种丝，必须及时烘干后使用。烘干的方法可以脱水机脱后使用胶丝烘燥机（8小时）或烘房（24小时）烘干。自然晾干的质量要比烘干好，但时间较长，约需一周。Dipped and colored yarns have to be dried before using It takes 8 hours by using drying machine, 24hours by drying room。 Quality of silk yam by airing is better than by dry

7、ing but it takes around one week.络丝 Winding将绞装丝展出而卷绕于有边筒子上。凡绞装丝不论用于经线或纬线以及并丝、捻丝与否，都必须经 过络丝机。Wind the yarn hanks into packages. All yam hanks, no matter they are used for warp or weft, for merging or not, for twisting or not, they have to be proceeded by winding machine.并丝 Merging根据织物的要求，用并丝机将根或更多的不同

8、规格的单丝合并，并卷绕于并丝筒管上。Accordi ng to requireme nts of d iff ere nt fabrics, merge single yams into 26 plied or more yarns and wind the merged yarns to packages捻丝 Twisting凡需在1米内有200捻度的S向或Z向捻度的捻丝，则单丝或并丝必须通过捻丝机加捻来完成。如捻丝锭子 的并丝筒管随锭子顺时针方向转的（左）捻向为S捻，相反，逆时针转向（右）捻向为Z捻。捻度最高-般约2800捻/米，称强捻。If the yarn needs no less

9、than 200 twists in one meter, no matter it is a single yarn or a multi-ply yarn, it has to be twisted by twisting machine. There are two directi ons of twist, one is S di recti on (left) and the other one is Z twist (right).Highest twist is around 2800 twist per meter.止捻/定型Setting丝经加捻后，特别是强捻丝，不仅容易约缩

10、，而且已有捻度也不稳定，因此必须止捻，以保持捻度稳定而不约缩。但不能因为止捻而损伤丝线强力、伸长、弹性等指标。止捻是由蒸筒箱或矩形立式蒸箱及圆筒卧式蒸箱完成。一般强捻丝在升温 100C后，蒸50分钟完成，并自然冷却。Twisted yam, especially high twisted yarn, is easy to crinkle and twists are not stable without setting.The purpose of setting is to fix the twists and keep the twists steady. Butstrength, elo

11、ngation andelastic of silk yarn cannot be affected in setting. This stage is processed in steam tank. It usually takes50 minutes at 100 C , then it will be cooled in a natural environment.成绞 Hanking捻丝经止捻后，由于蒸汽影响捻丝丝胶而至相互粘结，有碍后道工序进行。因此，捻丝在止捻后必须从捻丝筒管上退卷成绞。(有的也可卷到适用于整经或卷纬的筒管上，可减去该工序)，成绞后的捻丝经染色后，还必须经过络丝机

12、从绞丝中展出卷绕于后道工序，即适用于整经或卷纬的筒管上。Silk yarns are conglutinated with each other after setting because silk glue is melted and it adversely affects the next stage Therefore, they have to be reeled into hanks after setting. (Some can be winded into the packages for warping or weft winding. If so, this stage

13、can be skipped.) Twisted yams in hanks have to be winded into packages by winding machine after dyeing.整经 Warping集合络丝筒管上的单丝、并丝、捻丝、根据织物规格所需的一定经数、一定长度、一定幅度，利用整经机分条 整成织品所需的经线卷绕于径轴上，这是所有梭织品必须经过的工序。在整经时还必须通过分绞箝和定幅箝，把经线按奇、偶数分成上下两层并定幅，以便织机开口时通过纬线交织成绸。Parallel winding the package yarns around the drum accor

14、ding to the ends, length, density and width of different fabrics, then rewind them around the beam.穿综、穿箝、上机 Drafting/Drawing/Looming整经后的经轴经线，根据织品组织的组织点，依次穿综，穿箝。在穿综穿箝完成后，即将经轴连同箝和综上机，这是一台织机新上机的一个新品种的程序。如该织机是原品种的继续，则其新上机的经轴，可以免去穿综、穿箝而用接头的办法完成。As per the construction of the fabric, draft and draw the warp yarns in sequence. After this stage is completed, get the beam into the loom together with the reed and heddle. This is the way that looming a new item .If the product is same as the old one, this stage can be skipped and only joint is needed.