钻石术语（Diamond terminology）

1、钻石术语（Diamond terminology）AGSL：美国宝石协会实验室，美国权威的钻石检测机构。AGTA：美国宝石贸易协会，美国珠宝协会。安特卫普割安特卫普切工安特卫普钻石工匠的手艺被公认为是全世界最优秀的，在安特卫普，每天有上千名工人为获得著名品质标记安特卫普切，即”安特卫普切工”而全力以赴。比利时还拥有为数众多的钻石设计师，并经常举行钻石设计比赛，如两年一次的钻石高阶层议会奖大赛等，激励着钻石设计新作源源问世。方形切割asscher切割钻石面包的形状长阶梯形拥有阶梯切割面的长方形钻石如较长的两边渐渐收窄，则称为尖阶梯形锥形面包。酒吧设置棒镶钻石之间以金属分隔，并由左右的金属棒迫紧固

2、定。重子切割重子切割重子切割拥有传统阶梯切割冠部及改良明亮式切割亭部，除亭尖外，方形重子切割的钻石共有62切面。须状裂痕嵌接打磨过程中，可能出现的幼细裂痕较轻微的裂痕经重新打磨，可被完全去除。挡板设置包镶这一镶嵌技术钻石完全地为形似画框的贵金属边缘所包围。瑕疵表面瑕疵包括表面花痕及色点，抛光不当所致的糊状疤痕，表面很细的划伤的痕迹等。华晨闪耀度光线在钻石上全反射的白光强度。与切工比率以及对称性密切相关。辉煌的切明亮式切割经科学鉴定，明亮式切割反射最大部份光线，亦被誉为最闪烁及最具火采的切割方式。最普遍的明亮式切割圆形钻石具有58个切面，还有其它形状如心形、椭圆、榄尖形及梨形明亮式切割钻石。击痕

3、瘀伤钻石受到外力撞击留下的痕迹。克拉克拉克拉这个词来源于一种叫作豆角的植物种子，在古代人们用它来测量重量，一克拉等于200mg，142克拉等于一盎司，克拉可进一步划分为100分等于1克拉，半克拉的钻石也就是50分（大约100毫克）。腔空洞钻石大而深的不规则破口。频道设置槽镶常用于镶一排小的大小规则相同的宝石。这一镶嵌技术用两条金属从两边夹持宝石。用来镶圆形、狭长方形和方形宝石槽镶就象一条铁轨，中间夹钻石。特点钻石的特征钻石的天然生长痕迹和人为造成的缺陷。净度分级净度分级每颗钻石都含有天然的内含物，犹如天然胎记，而这些内含物的数量、大小、形状、颜色则决定一颗钻石的净度及独特性。故名思义，内含物藏

4、在钻石之内，而且可呈不同颜色：白、黑、无色、甚至绿色或红色。因此需在10倍放大镜下，对钻石内部和外部的特征进行等级划分。解理破口钻石腰部边缘破损的小口。云云状物钻石中朦胧状、乳状、无清晰边界的天然包裹体。群镶群集设置主石被较小的伴石包围，所以多颗较小的钻石，可组合成更大更漂亮的戒指。颜色分级颜色分级采用比色法，在规定的环境下对钻石颜色进行等级划分。水晶内部纹理钻石内部的天然结晶面。冠冠部腰以上部分，有33个刻面。宽高比冠比例冠部高度相对于平均直径的百分比，计算公式见下宽高比=冠部高度/平均直径100%冠角冠部角冠部主刻面与腰部水平面的夹角。底面底尖（或底小面）亭部主刻面的交汇点，呈点壮或呈小八

5、边形刻面。底尖比culet比例底尖直径相对于平均直径的百分比，计算公式见下底尖比=底尖直径/平均直径100%切工分级切工分级通过测量和观察，从比率和修饰度两个方面对钻石加工工艺完美性进行等级划分。切割方法 Cutting Style切割方法与钻石形状有所不同.简单来说, 切割方法可分三种: 阶梯切割、明亮式切割及混合切割.Cushion cut Diamond 长角阶梯切割Deep cut切割太深切工是指技师切割切面的角度及完成切割后钻石各部份的比例.当钻石腰部以下比例太深, 光线会由底部或旁边流走, 失却光采.钻石价值亦变得较低.Diamond钻石是主要由碳元素组成的等轴 (立方) 晶系天然

6、矿物.摩氏硬度10, 密度 3.52 (0.01) g / cm3, 折射率2.417, 色散 0.044.Diamond Grading 钻石分级从颜色 (Colour) 、净度 (Clarity) 、切工 (CUT) 、及质量 (carat) 四个方面对钻石进行等级划分, 简称4c分级.比色石 Dimond master set一套已标定颜色级别的标准钻型切工钻石样品, 依次代表由高至低连续的颜色级别.比色灯 Dimond Light色温在5500k 7200k范围内的日光灯.Diameter直径钻石腰部圆形水平面的直径, 其中最大值称为最小直径, 1 / 2 (最大直径 + 最小直径)

7、值称为平均直径.Dispersion色散进入钻石内的光线, 根据不同切面角度作内部反射, 光线的分配反射产生彩虹七色, 称为色散.Extra Face 额外刻面规定之外的所有多余刻面.Emerald Cut Diamond 祖母绿形Facets切面钻石胚经打磨后, 光滑的细小表面构成钻石的外型.光线与这些瓣面的反射作用, 造成钻石的闪烁光芒.Fancy coloured Diamond 彩钻钻石其它颜色如黄色、粉红色、蓝色、绿色、红色、黑色, 千变万化, 但极罕有, 价值极高.Fancy cut异形切工除圆形以外的任何形式的钻石琢型.异形切工包括如狭长方形、祖母绿形、三角形、梨形、公主形、椭圆

8、形和水滴形等琢型.Feather羽状纹钻石内部或延伸至内部的部分.Finish 修饰度 / 磨光钻石切割和抛光之后的表面平滑程度.如果打磨手工上乘, 钻石就拥有优质磨光.Fire 火彩度指钻石分解反射出七彩色谱光的强度.与切工比率以及对称性密切相关.Flat Top setting 平顶镶平顶镶类似吉卜赛镶, 同样是戒指臂的顶部较粗, 主石镶嵌在顶部的中央, 以金属片固定钻石腰.Fl级 Flawless经验丰富的分级人员在标准光源下, 用30倍放大镜观察, 没有发现任何的瑕疵特征而定义.也就是说该钻石不包含任何大于5微米的且具有足够亮度的瑕疵特征.Fluorescence 荧光强度 degre

9、e钻石在长波紫光照射下发出的可见光强弱程度.部份钻石在紫外线下, 会发出较白、较黄、或较蓝的光芒, 这特点称为荧光效应.一般非专业人士通常不会察觉.荧 光效应不是衡量钻石素质的指标, 只是该颗钻石的一种特性.而且个人对此的喜好也有所不同.我国按钻石在长波紫外光下发光强弱划分为 强 、 中 、 弱 、 无 4个级别.国外通常分为negligible, none, Inert, faint, Blue, Strong blue六个级别Gia美国珠宝学院The Gemological Institute of America, 美国珠宝学院, 国际权威的钻石检测机构.腰 Girdle钻石中直径最大的

10、圆周.Girdle 腰部裂痕 Fringes打磨过程中, 钻石腰上可能的出现幼细裂痕.较轻微的裂痕经重新打磨, 可被完全去除.Proportion 腰厚比 Girdle腰部厚度相对于平均直径的百分比, 计算公式见下腰厚比 = 腰部厚度 / 平均直径100%Growth 或grain Lines 钻石纹理这些细纹或平面属于内部瑕疵, 并须将钻石以极慢速度旋转, 才可察觉得到.它们于某些角度出现又瞬间消失.吉卜赛镶 Gypsy setting这是男装钻戒的普遍镶嵌方法, 戒指臂的顶部较粗, 主石镶嵌在圆拱形顶部的中央.The design without metal claws makes the

11、 ring lines more concise and smooth.Hearts, and, arrows, cut, eight arrows, eight hearts cuttingRound drill, from the top to see there are eight arrows, from the bottom to see, there are eight hearts, the standard eight arrows, eight hearts, cutting material loss.Heart-shaped diamond heartsHRD (Belg

12、ian diamond high class parliament):The Belgian diamond high class Council, the international authority of diamond organizations and testing organizations. The highest official regulatory body in the diamond industry in belgium. The 4 diamond exchanges in Antwerp, the Belgian Diamond Exchange Federat

13、ion, the relevant trade organizations and trade unions, their spokesmen were HRD. HRDs mission is to develop and protect the Belgian diamond trade and industry. The HRD is organized by the general assembly, the board of directors, the board of directors, the General Administration, the diamond Burea

14、u, the Gemological Institute, the diamond technology research centre, the certificate division, etc.IGLThe, Independent, Gemological, Laboratories, Inc., the authority of the United States diamond testing institutions.Illusion Setting illusion inlayThis method is more interesting than others, becaus

15、e the metal beside the main stone is carefully designed to make the main stone look bigger and more attractive.Inclusions inclusionsBecause it is naturally formed, each diamond has different flaws inside, and each diamond is different from each other. You can know the quantity, size and type of thes

16、e natural birthmark from the clarity grading rules. Inclusions can be divided into clouds, crystalline, needle point and feather lines and so on. The location of the inclusion also directly affects the clarity and value of the diamond.Indented, Natural, concave, primitiveThe diamond net surface is c

17、oncave, like the natural knot inside the diamond.Internally, flawless, IF classExperienced grading personnel, under standard light sources, are observed with 30 magnification lenses without defining any of the flaws in the diamond.Knot original crystal surface:A natural crystalline surface retained

18、at the waist or near the waist for maximum mass.Laser, Drill, Hole laser markRemove traces of dark inclusions in diamonds with lasers and chemicals. A tubular or funnel mark is called a laser hole. It can be filled with high refractive index glass.LCExperienced grading personnel, under standard ligh

19、t sources, are observed with 10 magnification lenses without defining any of the defects. In other words, the diamond contains no more than 5 microns and has enough brightness of the flaw features. (the highest standard of cleanliness in China). The following conditions are still in the LC class:1.

20、the extra facets are in the pavilion and the crown is invisible2. the original crystal surface is in the waistline, which does not affect the transparency3. diamond inside and outside have very slight characteristics, gently micro polishing can be removedLower, girdle, facet, low backThe triangular

21、facets between the main facets of the waist and the pavilion.Masterstone, of, fluorescence, degree fluorescence intensity contrast samplesA set of calibrated fluorescence intensity level standard round diamond cut diamond samples, by 3, the lower limit of the order on behalf of strong, medium and we

22、ak three levels.Marquise-cut diamond Marquise CutMixed-cut hybrid cuttingThe cutting method also has a ladder section and a bright section. The combined cut allows the diamond to have both a Beryls beauty and a bright cut flame.Mohs, hardness, molar hardnessInternational Hardness meter.Natural surfa

23、ce textureA natural growth mark on the surface of a diamond.Needle whiskers waistA small, needle shaped crack in the diamonds waist deep into the interior.Nickel nickelOften added to K platinum.NGTC (National jade jewelry quality supervision and inspection center)NGTC (National Gemstone Testing Cent

24、re) is authorized by the state authorities in accordance with the law of the national quality inspection agency is a professional jade jewelry, jade jewelry on Chinese authority. The inspection center is entrusted with the inspection service for the society, and undertakes the tasks of supervision a

25、nd inspection of the country, arbitration, inspection of import and export commodities, the formulation and revision of relevant national standards and other tasks. Chief amendment to the national diamond standards.Oval-cut diamond ovatePoor P classExperienced grading personnel use the naked eye to

26、detect defects, which can affect the fire of diamonds.Pavilion Pavilion DepartmentThe upper part of the waist has 24 or 25 facets.Pavilion main facet pavilion main facetQuadrangular facets of pavilion.Pavolion angle Pavilion cornerThe angle between the main part of the pavilion and the horizontal pl

27、ane of the waist.Pavilion proportion Pavilion depth ratioThe percentage of the pavilion depth relative to the mean diameter is calculated as below亭深比 = 亭部深度 / 平均直径100%pav setting 密镶小钻石的镶嵌技术, 钻石互相间的镶嵌很紧密, 故不显金属.密镶的表面看上去全由钻石铺平.pewter 白蜡蜡腔模具, 一种珠宝制作工艺.pear - shaped diamond 梨形pinpoint 点状包体钻石内部极小的天然包裹体.p

28、latinum 铂金镶嵌钻石的理想金属, pt是其标志.point 分重量在1克拉以下的钻石通常也用 分 作为计量单位, 1克拉 = 100分.the polish 打磨抛光指切割技师将钻石胚打磨及造出钻石切面的工序.钻石外表打磨的程度, 是衡量钻石品质的重要指标.poor cut 不良切工切工是指技师切割瓣面的角度, 及完成切割后钻石各部份的比例.切割太深或太浅都称为不良切工, 当钻石腰部以下比例太深或太浅, 光线会由底部或旁边流走, 失却光采, 钻石价值亦变得较低.princess cut diamond 公主方形改良明亮式切割钻石drong setting / tiffany setti

29、ng 爪镶用长的细爪夹持宝石的四爪或六爪镶嵌.这种镶嵌尽现钻石之美, 便于观察钻石的车工、颜色、净度, 由纽约著名珠宝商蒂芙尼发明, 现广泛采用.the proportion 比率钻石各个面的数值相对于平均直径的百分比.radiant cut diamond 雷地恩明亮式切割ring size 手寸戒指指圈的大小称为手寸, 以号来表示.东方人的手寸大小在8号 - 24号之间.rose gold 玫瑰金含有75% 的黄金的黄色合金.round brilliant cut 圆钻型切工理想式切工, 也称托尔科夫斯基工.是波兰数学家马歇尔托尔科夫斯基marcel tolkowsky (18991991

30、) 于1919年首先计算出理论上让钻石反射最大量光线的切割方程式.台面阔度应为总阔度之53%, 亭面角度应为 40及45度.有57或58个刻面.rhodium 铑一种铂系金属.round diamond shape 圆形shallow cut 切割太浅切工是指技师切割瓣面的角度, 及完成切割后钻石各部份的比例.当钻石腰部以下比例太浅, 光线会由底部或旁边流走, 失却光采.钻石价值亦变得较低.shape 形状指钻石的型态, 例如圆形、三角形、正方形、榄尖形、梨形、椭圆形或心形.the step cut 阶梯切割一级级像楼梯级般的切割面.绿柱石形及长阶梯形切割都是阶梯切割的例子.star face

31、t 星刻面冠部主刻面与台面之间的三角形刻面.slightly included si级经验丰富的分级人员用10倍放大镜能够很容易的发现小的瑕疵特征.根据瑕疵特征的尺寸、位置、数量决定是si1 (fue visible inclusions) 还是si2 (some visible inclusions).scintillation 闪光当钻石反射光线, 从切面发出的点点光芒称为闪光.silver 银常用于添加在k白金中.单粒镶 solitaire单粒宝石的镶嵌.symmetry 对称性钻石切割打磨后获得的各部分的围绕中心点的水平对称, 即切面排列及相互的角度.与比率一样同为评价切工的重要指标.

32、如果一颗钻石的车工及比例均属优良, 对称的切割会令闪光及火采更加强烈.国外证书关于对称性 的评价较为详细, 从高到低依次有 ideals (id), excellent (ex) (或premium), very good (vg), fair (f), poor (p).table facet 台面冠部八边形刻面.table 台宽比 proportion台面宽度相对于平均直径的百分比, 计算公式见下台宽比 = 台面宽度 / 平均直径100%tension setting 壁镶以两边金属臂的压力, 将主石紧迫固定.the total depth 全深钻石台面至底尖之间的垂直距离.total d

33、epth proportion 全深比全深相对于平均直径的百分比, 计算公式见下全深比 = 全深 / 平均直径100%t.W. (Total, Weight)The total number of carats of diamonds set on jewelry.Tapered, baguette, pointed, ladder shapedDiamond with stepped cutting surface; longer sides narrowed gradually.Trillion shape triangleA triangular diamond with 50 cutting faces; usually used as a companion stoneTwinning W