服装设计中英文对照外文翻译文献

服装设计中英文对照外文翻译文献服装设计中英文对照外文翻译文献(文档含英文原文和中文翻译)Collegemen’sfashionAbriefreviewoftheliteratureonthesocialpsychologyofclothingrevealsthatyoungwomenaremorefrequentlyresearchparticipantsthanmen.Thismaybebecausewomenfaroutnumbermeninmajoringinclothingdesignandapparelmerchandisingandthusaremoreeasilyaccessibleasresearchparticipantsthanmen.Regardlessofwhyclothingresearchincludesmorewomenasresearchparticipants,thisfocusonwomenhasresultedinadearthofresearchonyoungmen.Insupportofthis,ReillyandRudd(\o"Viewreference"2007)reportthatresearchhasinvestigatedmen’sclothingpreferencesandhabitstoalesserextentthanwomen’s.men’sideasaboutfashionanditsimportanceintheirliveshavebeenoverlooked.Despitethelimitedresearchonyoungmen,consumergroupscomprisedofcollegemenareimportanttocommercialmarketersintermsofexpenditureinmen’sapparelandaccessories.AccordingtoStatista,in2012theexpenditureonmen’sclothinggoodsintheUnitedStateswas$22.2billion.Menpurchasedfootwearthemost,followedbyshirtsandsuits.Priorresearchhasalsoshownthatmen’sinterestinfashionisontherise,leadingtoanincreaseinmen’sapparelsales.Historically,womenhavebeenmuchmoreconsciousabouttheirappearancethanmen,butinrecenttimesthereappearstohavebeenachangeinthisleveloffocusonappearanceamongmen.Specifically,youngmeninGenerationYwhohavebeensocializedbymassmediaandmarketingactivitieshavebecomeappearanceconscious,whichleadstoapparelconsumption(Kacen

\o"Viewreference"2000;PattersonandElliot

\o"Viewreference"2002).Youngmenusuallyusedresstocommunicatetheiridentities(Shete

\o"Viewreference"2012),andtheiraspirationstowardcommunicatingthismayinfluencetheirapparelconsumption(Kangetal.

\o"Viewreference"2011).Understandingtherelationshipbetweencollege-agedmen’sidentitiesandtheirclothingchoicesprovidesapparelmarketerswithusefulinformationtodevelopeffectivestrategiestoproduceandmarketclothesinaccordancewiththecommonvalueswithwhichthisgroupstrivestoidentify.AccordingtoHoggandBanister(\o"Viewreference"2001),individualscaneitherhaveapositivereferencepoint(i.e.,desiredendstate)oranegativereferencepoint(i.e.,undesiredendstate)thattheyusetoachievetheirdesiredidentities.Sofar,muchresearchhasbeenconductedonthepositiveaspectsofconsumers’consumptionchoice.Alackofresearchintothenegativeaspectsofconsumptionchoicemotivatedustoquestiontheirimpactonconsumerbehavior.Consumers’avoidancebehaviorallowsthemtocreatefurtherdistancebetweenthemselvesandtheirundesiredidentities(HoggandBanister

\o"Viewreference"2001),stayingwithinthethresholdoftheirdesiredidentities.Thus,thisresearchfocusesontheclothingandstylethatcollegemenavoid.Anexploratorystudywasconductedonmenattendingamajormidwesternuniversity.Onthebasisoftheresultsoftheexploratorystudy,researchinterviewquestionsforanyfurtherstudieswillbemodifiedtoaddresstheresearchproblemappropriately.Thepurposeoftheexploratorystudywastoinvestigatewhatclothingcollegemenprefer,whatidentitiestheyachievethroughtheirclothing,andwhattheywanttoavoidintheirclothingchoices.Ourresearchquestionswereasfollows:(1)Doescollege-agedmen’sclothingreflecttheiridentitiesandwhatdotheywanttoexpressthroughtheirclothingchoices?and(2)Whatundesiredidentities(relatedtoaspectsofanavoidedself)docollege-agedmenavoidintheirclothingchoices?LiteraturereviewSocialidentitytheorySocialidentitytheoryasconceptualizedbyTajfelandTurner(\o"Viewreference"1979)referstoperceivedidentityofthegroupstowhichpeoplebelong(Tajfel

\o"Viewreference"1982).Socialidentitytheorypositsthataperson’sself-conceptisbasedonhisorhergroupmembership.Thistheoryconsistsoftwodimensions:socialidentityandpersonalidentity(Howard

\o"Viewreference"2000;Tajfel

\o"Viewreference"1982).Socialidentityreflectsmembershipinvarioussocialgroups(e.g.,clubs,socialclass),andpersonalidentityrepresentstheuniqueattributesthatdifferentiateonepersonfromanother(Howard

\o"Viewreference"2000;Tajfel

\o"Viewreference"1982).Incomplexsocialenvironments,youngpeoplecanusetheiridentificationwithin-groups(i.e.,theirowngroup)versusout-groups(i.e.,othergroups)(Ogilvie

\o"Viewreference"1987)toaligntheirappearance(i.e.,thetotalandcompositeimagecreatedbyclothing)withadesiredsocialgroupandtodifferentiatethemselvesfromtheundesired,oravoidance,referencegroup(BanisterandHogg

\o"Viewreference"2004).Thus,socialidentitiesprovidestatustoyoungmenandenhancetheirself-esteem.Researchhasusedsocialidentitytheorytoinvestigatetheeffectsofmen’sidentitiesontheuseofdress(i.e.,allmaterialobjectsaddedtobody).Forexample,Kangetal.(\o"Viewreference"2011)usedsocialidentitytheoryasatheoreticalframeworktoinvestigatetherelationshipbetweenyoungprofessionalmen’sperceptionsofworkidentityandtheiruseofdress.Theyfoundthattheyoungmenwhofeltincompleteintheirworkidentityuseddressasasymboltoconstructtheiridentities.Thus,inthisstudy,weusedsocialidentitytheoryasatheoreticalfoundationtoexaminetherelationshipbetweencollegemen’sidentitiesandtheirclothingchoices.Men’sidentitieswithfashionAccordingtoKratzandReimer(\o"Viewreference"1998),fashionisfilledwithmeaningsandsymbols,throughwhichpeoplecanvisuallycommunicatewithoneanotherinarapidanddirectmanner.Fashionenablespeopletoexpresstheirviewsaboutthemselvesandtheiridentitiesthroughtheuseofclothing;itallowsthemtovisuallycommunicatewhotheyare,whotheywanttobe,whattypeofsocialgrouptheywanttobelongto,andwhomtheydonotwanttobeassociatedwiththemost(Shete

\o"Viewreference"2012).Furthermore,Bennett(\o"Viewreference"2005)statesthatfashionisoneofthechannelsthroughwhichpeoplecanmostreadilygivevoicetotheiridentities.Beyondwords,peoplecanconveythemselvesthroughdressandfashion,thuscreatingtheirsocialidentity.Fashion’sessentialroleinprovidingpeoplewithmeanstobuild,shape,andcommunicatetheiridentitiesisespeciallyprominentinlargermetropolitancitieswherethey“minglewithcrowdsofstrangersandhaveonlyfleetingmomentstoimpressthem”(Bennett

\o"Viewreference"2005,p96).Menidentifythemselvesthroughvariousways.Forexample,somemenmayidentifythemselvesthroughtheirbodyappearance,whileothersmayshowtheiridentitiesbythewaytheydress;HathcoteandKim(\o"Viewreference"2008)notethatmenrepresentthemselvesthroughhowtheydress.Moreover,manymencareaboutwhattheywearandhowtheywearitonadailybasisandalsocareabouthowothersperceivethem.Aspartofcampussociety,collegestudentsalsospendtimeonhowtheydress.Somemalestudentspreferwearingsweatpantsorbaggybasketballshortsatschool,whileotherspreferwearingpoloshirtsandcasualpants.Thewaymalecollegestudentschoosetheiroutfitsforschoolrepresentstheirdifferentpersonalitiesandidentities.Forexample,somemalestudentswearathleticclothingtoshowofftheirmasculinity.ThisisconsistentwithLunceford(\o"Viewreference"2010,p.66),whoarguesthat“malestudentschooseaspecificarticleofclothingbecauseofhowitmakesthemfeelorbecauseitdownplayswhattheyconsidertobeunattractiveaspectsoftheirbodieswhileaccentuatingtheirbestfeatures.”Researchershaveconductedstudiesrelatedtotheimportanceofclothingandfashionforidentitycreationandcommunication.Forexample,PiacentiniandMailer(\o"Viewreference"2004)foundthatyoungpeopleintheUnitedKingdomtendedtouseclothingtoshowsimilaritybetweenthemselvesandthegroupstheywishedtobeidentifiedwith,andasachanneltoestablishpotentialfriendships.SchofieldandSchmidt(\o"Viewreference"2005)examinedtheimportanceofclothesusedinconstructingandcommunicatinggaymen’spersonalandgroupidentitieswithasampleofManchester-basedrespondents.Theyshapedindividualgayidentitythroughdifferentlevels(i.e.,communitylevel,neo-triballevel,andsituationallevel)andfoundthatgayidentityemergedthroughclothingchoices.Intheirstudy,gayidentityissharedonagaycommunityleveltoexpress“gayness”toothers;onaneo-triballeveltoshow“belonging”toasocialgaycohortwithsharedexperienceandemotions;andonasituationalleveltomakethemselvesblendinwithwherevertheyare(SchofieldandSchmidt

\o"Viewreference"2005).Asmentionedpreviously,youngpeopleincomplexsocialenvironmentscanusetheiridentificationwithin-groupsversusout-groups(Ogilvie

\o"Viewreference"1987)toaligntheirappearancewithadesiredsocialgroup,andtodifferentiatethemselvesfromtheundesired,oravoidance,referencegroup(BanisterandHogg

\o"Viewreference"2004).IntheirstudyofasampleofBritishconsumers,BanisterandHogg(\o"Viewreference"2004)foundthatmanyconsumersworesafeclothingitems(e.g.,simpleclothes,whichwouldbeinterpretedpositively)toavoidcensureratherthanriskyitems.Ifsuchfearsoffollyandnegativeattentionarepresentinmaleconsumers,certaincommonalitiesamongthemcanbeidentified.EislerandSkidmore(\o"Viewreference"1987)proposedthatmen’sgender-roleexpectationscontributedtofearsaboutlackofathleticism,emotionalintimacy,intimacywithothermen(orhomophobia),andfailure.Ifthefeminine,unathletic,impotentmanisrepresentativeofperceivedundesirabilityamongmen,symbolicidentifiersofthosetraitscanbeindicativeofyoungmen’slabelingofavoidancereferencegroupsandthe“avoidedself.”Thus,men’sfashionconservatism(i.e.,dressinginamasculinewayaccordingtosocialnorms)couldbepartiallyattributedtothegeneralizedfearofappearing“feminine”(Kimmel

\o"Viewreference"1994).AversiontoalternativestylesTheaversiontoalternativestyleswasaccompaniedbyseveralrationales.Onerespondentsaidheavoidedskinnyjeans(oftenassociatedwith“skater”and“emo”culture)simply“forcomfort.”Anotherrespondentavoideddarkandalternativestylesto“avoidnegativestigmas”andpossibleassociationswithlowintelligencerelatedtogroupthink.However,themajorityoftherespondentswhosaidtheyavoidalternativestyleswereunabletoexplaintheiraversion.Mentionsofdislikeofalternativeclothingwereoftensuppliedfirstandwithlittlehesitation,suggestingthatthisisasomewhatautomaticandmarkeddislikeforthoserespondents.Onerespondentsaidheavoidswearingblackandlookinggothicbecausehisfriendsdonotwearthosestyles,suggestingafearofostracismwhenwearingalternativeclothing.Inasimilarvein,onerespondentincludedthathe“doesn’twanttoleadpeopletobelieveheisdark.”A23-year-oldCaucasianrespondent,whenaskedifheavoidedanystylesofclothing,said:“Gothicstuffforsure,darkclothingorHotTopicstuff.Idon’twanttobeassociatedwiththemandIhatethepeoplethatwearthatstuff,likespikedbelts.”ThistypeofsentimentoccurredalmostexclusivelyamongCaucasianrespondentsfrommiddle-andupper-middle-classbackgrounds.Thefearofsocialscrutinyandostracism,alongwithageneralstigmaregardingalternativeandcounter-culture,appearstobethemostcommonmotivationforavoidingalternativestyles.AversiontogangsterstylesGangsterstyleswerementionedoften,andresponsesoftenindicatedsocialandracialprejudices,inadditiontothefearofsocialjudgment.Manyrespondentsassociated“big”and“baggy”clothingwithgangsterstyle.Raceemergedasadefinitecomponentofthisaversion.AllbutoneoftherespondentswholistedgangsterstyleasanavoidedstyleidentifiedasCaucasian.Onerespondentdirectlyindictedhisaversiontowearingclothes“ablackpersonwouldwear,”suggestingthataffiliationwiththeAfricanAmericanculturewouldbeundesirable.Othervariantsincludedanaversionto“swaggear”and“thugstyle.”Anotherrespondentevenusedavariantofaracialslurtoexpresshisavoidanceofgangster-inflectedstyles.Therespondentssuppliedlittleadditionaljustificationforavoidingthisstyle,andwhenaskedtoexpoundontheirpreference,threeclaimedthattheywereunabletoprovidefurtherinformation.AversiontogaystylesThreerespondentsexpressedavoidingclothingthatcouldberegardedas“gay.”Thewearingofskinnyjeans,jeanshorts,V-neckshirts,orcardiganswasperceivedasindicativeofhomosexuality,accordingtotheinterviewdata.Theinclusionoftheseitemsofclothingspecificallyindicatesanassociationofform-fittingclothingandlownecklineswitheffeminacyandgayculture.Respondentsexpressedadesiretorepresentthemselvesaccurately,andthosewhoclaimedtoavoidgay-inflectedclothingsuggestedthatitwasundesirableonthegroundsthat(1)theydislikedgayculture,(2)theywantedtoexpresstheirheterosexuality,and(3)theywantedtoavoidspeculationfromothersthattheywerehomosexual.Inthisregard,homophobicsentiments,adesireforaccurateself-representation,andafearofsocialjudgmentallseemedtobecomponentsoftheserespondents’desiretoavoidclothingperceivedasbeingwornbygaymen.Anotherrespondentsaidthatherefusedtowearanyclothingfromthe“women’ssection,”andthoughthisdoesnotnecessaryrelatetotheavoidanceofgaystyle,itdoesrepresentanoften-relatedfearofgender-roledeviation.Thus,anavoidedselfandavoidancebehaviorwereimportantfactorsinclothingchoice,supportingearlierfindingsfromHoggandBanister’s(\o"Viewreference"2001)studyinwhichdislikesanddistastesofcollegemenwereassociatedwithnegativesymbolicconsumption.Thissentimentisdemonstratedbyanotherrespondent’snotionthatsaid,“youknowthattherearecertainthingsthatyoudon’twanttobuybecauseyoudon’twanttoprojectyourselfinanegativeway.”Theyproposedthatagreaterunderstandingoftheimpactofnegativesymbolicconsumptiononconsumersproductrejectioncouldhelpthedevelopmentofcompaniesmarketingcommunicationstrategies.CulturalbackgroundandtheavoidedselfDemographicsindicateddifferenttrendsinresponsesamongrespondents.ThefourChinesemenwhoparticipatedwerelargelyunabletoproduceresponsesregardingavoidedclothingandstyles.Oneoftheserespondentssaidheonlyavoidsclothingthatis“toocolorfulorfashionable”because“itisnothisstyle.”Anothersaidheonlyavoids“hip-hopclothing”becauseitdoesnotmatchhisseriouspersonality.Theothertworespondentssaidthattherewerenotypesofclothingorstylestheyavoided.ThesesentimentscontrastgreatlywiththeresponsesfromAmericanstudents,allbutoneofwhomlistedoneorseveraltypesofavoidedclothingandstyles.Furthermore,thebriefelaborationstheChinesestudentssuppliedregardingthereasontheyavoidclothingrelatedtoissuesofpersonalidentity,withnomentionofsocialorculturalmotivationsfordoingso.ThisindicatesthattheavoidanceofstylesduetofearsofsocialcastigationandnegativegroupassociationscouldholdasaphenomenonmoreprevalentintheUnitedStatesthaninChina.Thecollege-agedmeninthisstudyexpressedadesireforclothingthatiscomfortable,givesthemconfidence,andmeetstheexpectationsoftheirsurroundings.Thesemenrecognizedthattheirclothingwasonerepresentationoftheiridentities.Thus,theresultssuggestthatcollegemenaredrivenlargelybyadesireforcomfortandtomeetnormativeexpectations.Thesefindingsaresupportedbythesuppositionthat“mendressforfitandcomfortratherthanforstyle”,madebyCraik(\o"Viewreference"1994)andconfirmedbyBakewelletal.(\o"Viewreference"2006).Theseattributesforcollegemen’sclothingchoiceseemtobequitedifferentfromthoseforyoungwomen,wholargelymaketheirchoicesbasedonbrand(fit,look,andstyle)(TaylorandCosenza

\o"Viewreference"2002).Thedrivingforceforcollegemen’sclothingchoiceisseeminglyfunctionalratherthandecorative(Kacen

\o"Viewreference"2000),eveniftheyhavebecomemoreappearance-conscious.Overall,thepositiveconnectionbetweenyoungmen’sindividualidentitiesandtheirclothingchoicesparallelspreviousresearchontherelationshipbetweenyoungprofessionalmen’sperceptionsofworkidentityandtheirdresschoices(Kangetal.

\o"Viewreference"2011),andonthelinkbetweenyoungpeople’sclothingchoicesandtheidentityofthegroupstowhichtheybelong(PiacentiniandMailer

\o"Viewreference"2004).Aminorityofrespondentsavoidedcertaintypesofclothingbecausetheyfeltitwasincongruentwiththeirstyles.Theiraversiontoclothingthatappearstobelongtoalternative,gangster,orgaystylessuggeststhatthesemenstrivedtoavoidclothingthatimpliedidentitiesviewedasnon-conformist,non-professional,andunusual.Thesemenindicatedthattheirclothingchoiceswereperhapsmotivatedbyadesiretofitinwithothers.Theiraversiontoclothingstylesthatcommunicatedincongruentidentitiesimpliesthatdeviationsfromcultural,class,race,andgender-relatednormswereundesirable.翻译：大学男装时尚简要回顾服装社会心理学的文献显示,年轻女性比男性更多的成为研究参与者。这可能是在主修服装设计和服装销售上女性远多于男性,因此比男性更容易成为研究参与者。不管什么原因使得女性为研究参与者,对女性的关注导致对男性的研究缺乏。,雷利和陆克文(2007)报告研究调查了男装的偏好和习惯程度低于女性。男性对时尚的思想和它的重要性在他们的生活中一直被忽视。尽管对男性的研究有限,消费者团体组成的大学生是支出男性服装及配件方面重要的商业营销人员。根据Statista研究在美国2012年男装商品支出为222亿美元。男人购买的鞋子最多,其次是衬衫和西装。以前的研究也表明,男性对时尚的兴趣正在上升,导致男装销售增加。在历史上,女性比男性更关注外表,但近年来似乎已经改变这种趋势开始关注男性的外表。具体地说,男性在这一时代已经被大众媒体和社会化营销活动影响有意识的外,导致服装消费(Kacen帕特森和艾略特2000;2000)。年轻人通常用衣服来交流他们的身份(2012年雨水),和他们的愿望向沟通这可能影响他们的服装消费(Kangetal.2011年)。适龄男性的身份和他们之间的关系理解服装的选择为服装营销人员提供了有用的信息制定有效战略生产和市场的衣服按照这一群体的共同的价值观努力识别。根据霍格和栏杆(2001),个人可以有积极的参考点(即。,理想的最终状态)或负面的参考点(即。不受欢迎的结束状态),他们用来实现所需的身份。到目前为止,许多研究已经进行的积极方面消费者的消费选择。缺乏研究消费选择的负面激励我们去质疑他们对消费者行为的影响。消费者的回避行为进一步允许他们创建他们自己和他们之间的距离不受欢迎的身份(霍格和栏杆2001),住在阈值所需的身份。因此,本研究的重点是大学男人避免服装和风格。一个探索性研究男人中西部大学参加一个专业。探索性研究结果的基础上,进一步研究研究面试问题将会适当地修改解决研究问题。探索性研究的目的是调查什么男人喜欢服装学院身份他们通过服装、实现什么,他们希望避免在他们的服装选择。我们的研究问题如下:(1)适龄男性的服装反映出他们的身份,通过他们的服装选择他们想表达什么?和(2)不受欢迎的身份(避免自我的相关方面)适龄男性避免在服装的选择吗?文献综述社会认同理论社会认同理论概念化的Tajfel和特纳(1979)是指感知人所属团体的身份(Tajfel1982)。社会认同理论认为一个人的自我概念是基于他或她的组成员关系。这个理论包括两个维度:社会身份和个人身份(HowardTajfel2000;2000)。社会身份反映了不同社会群体的成员(如。、俱乐部、社会阶层),个人身份代表着独特的属性,区分一个人从另一个(HowardTajfel2000;2000)。在复杂的社会环境中,年轻人可以使用他们的认同群(即。,自己组)与外群体(即。其他团体)(1987年Ogilvie)外表(即一致。,总合成图像由服装)和所需的社会群体,区别自己和不受欢迎的,或者回避,参照群体(栏杆和何克2004)。因此,社会身份为年轻人提供状态,增强他们的自尊。研究使用社会认同理论研究的影响男性的身份(即使用衣服。对象添加到身体),所有材料。例如,康etal.(2011)用社会认同理论作为理论框架研究工作身份的年轻职业男性的看法之间的关系和他们的衣服的使用。他们发现年轻男子对自己的工作感到不完整的身份使用礼服作为构建自己的身份象征。因此,在本研究中,我们使用社会认同理论作为研究的理论基础大学男子身份之间的关系和他们的服装选择。男人的身份与时尚根据Kratz和雷蒙(1998)、时尚充满意义和符号,通过它人们可以直观地相互通信的快速和直接的方式。时尚自我使人们表达自己的观点和他们的身份通过使用服装;它允许他们形象的传达他们是谁,他们想要谁,什么类型的社会群体他们想属于,并且他们不想与最相关(雨水2012)。此外,班尼特(2005)指出,时尚是人们可以通过哪些渠道最容易表达自己的身份。难以言表,人们可以通过衣服和时尚表达自己,从而创建自己的社会身份。时尚的重要作用为人们提供手段构建、形状、和沟通他们的身份在较大的城市尤其突出,他们“与成群的陌生人,只有短暂的时刻给他们留下深刻印象”(贝内特2005,p2005)。男人认为自己通过不同的方式。例如,有些人可能认为自己通过他们的身体外表,而其他人可能显示他们身份的衣服;Hathcote和金姆(2008)指出,男性表示自己通过他们的着装。此外,许多人关心他们每天穿以及他们如何穿它也关心别人怎么看待他们。大学生作为校园社会的一部分,也花时间在他们如何着装。一些男学生喜欢在学校穿着运动裤和宽松的篮球短裤,而其他人则喜欢穿马球衬衫和休闲裤。男大学生的方式选择自己的服装为学校代表他们不同的个性和身份。例如,一些男生穿运动的衣服来炫耀他们的男子气概。这是符合Lunceford(2010,第66页),他认为“男学生选择一个特定的服饰,因为这让他们感觉如何或因为它轻视他们认为身体的吸引力方面,强调他们的最佳特性。”相关研究人员进行的研究的重要性,服装和时尚的身份创造和交流。例如,Piacentini和梅勒(2004)发现,在英国的年轻人往往要用服装表达相似性和组织他们希望被识别,和一个通道建立潜在的友谊。斯科菲尔德和施密特(2005)检查衣服用于构建的重要性和沟通男同性恋者的个人和组身份曼彻斯特受访者的一个示例。他们的个人通过不同层次(即同性恋身份。社区层面,neo-tribal水平,和态势级),发现同性恋身份出现在服装的选择。在他们的研究中,同性恋身份共享在同性恋社区层面表达“同性恋”他人;在neo-tribal层面上展示“属于”一个社会同性恋群体共享经验和情感,并在情境层面使自己融入无论他们在哪里(斯科菲尔德和施密特2005)。如前所述,年轻人在复杂的社会环境中可以使用他们的认同群和外群体(1987年Ogilvie)使外表与所需的社会群体,区别自己和不受