各种卡波(carbomer)的流变特性及应用

1、 The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reservedFormulate with Confidence The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved2主旨主旨开发一种能帮助我们的客户在护肤配方设计中选择合适的卡开发一种能帮助我们的客户在护肤配方设计中选择合适的卡波聚合物的工具波聚合物的工具了解不同的卡波聚合物在配方中及涂抹在皮肤上的性能表现了解不同的卡波聚合物在配方中及涂抹在皮肤上的性能表现的基本区别的基本区别 内容内容凝胶及乳液配方条件下的数据总结包括：凝胶及乳液配方条件下的数据总结包括

2、：基本物理性能（粘度，屈服值，透明度），基本的流变基本物理性能（粘度，屈服值，透明度），基本的流变性能性能 ，感官性能评估，感官性能评估流变性能和感官表现的联系流变性能和感官表现的联系应用配方举例应用配方举例 The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved4PartIngredientsINCI% WeightACarbopol Ultrez 10 polymerCarbomer0.23 Carbopol Ultrez 20 polymer

3、Acrylates C10-C30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.60 Carbopol Ultrez 21 polymerAcrylates C10-C30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.23 Carbopol 940 polymerCarbomer 0.20 Carbopol 980 polymerCarbomer 0.25 Carbopol 934 polymerCarbomer0.45Deionized Water Qs to 100BTEA(99%)TriethanolamineQS to pH = 6.0 6.5CGlyd

4、ant Plus LiquidDMDM Hydantoin (&) Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate0.400.400.400.400.400.40 The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved5U10 = Carbopol Ultrez 10 polymerU20 = Carbopol Ultrez 20 polymerU21 = Carbopol Ultrez 21 polymer940 = Carbopol 940 polymer980 = Carbopol 980 polymer934 = Carbo

5、pol 934 polymer (mPaS) The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved6U10 = Carbopol Ultrez 10 polymerU20 = Carbopol Ultrez 20 polymerU21 = Carbopol Ultrez 21 polymer940 = Carbopol 940 polymer980 = Carbopol 980 polymer934 = Carbopol 934 polymer The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved7

6、U10 = Carbopol Ultrez 10 polymerU20 = Carbopol Ultrez 20 polymerU21 = Carbopol Ultrez 21 polymer940 = Carbopol 940 polymer980 = Carbopol 980 polymer934 = Carbopol 934 polymer The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved8Carbopol Ultrez 20 聚合物表现出最好的耐离子性聚合物表现出最好的耐离子性 较高的粘度较高的屈服值优异的透明度在离子浓度较低时，在离

7、子浓度较低时，Carbopol 934和和980聚合物表现出较好聚合物表现出较好的耐离子性，其保持粘度和屈服值的能力相对较高的耐离子性，其保持粘度和屈服值的能力相对较高 Carbopol 980聚合物大于80%透过率的透明度Carbopol 934的透明度相对较低Carbopol Ultrez 10, Ultrez 21 和和940聚合物在凝胶配方体系聚合物在凝胶配方体系里有中等的耐离子性里有中等的耐离子性 The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved9Viscosity (PaS)Viscosity (PaS) The Lubrizol

8、 Corporation 2008, all rights reserved10Viscosity (PaS)Viscosity (PaS) The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved110.10001.00010.00100.01000osc. stress (Pa)0.0100.1001.00010.00100.01000Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer + NaClCarbopol Ultrez 20 Polymer + NaClCarbopol Ultrez 21 Polymer + NaClCarbopol

9、 940 Polymer + NaClCarbopol 980 Polymer + NaClCarbopol 934 Polymer + NaCl0.10001.00010.00100.01000osc. stress (Pa)0.0100.1001.00010.00100.01000G弹性模量弹性模量 (Pa.s)Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer CarbopolUltrez 20 polymerCarbopol Ultrez 21Polymer Carbopol 940 PolymerCarbopol 980 PolymerCarbopol 934 Polymer 屈服

10、应力Rest plateauRest plateau屈服应力G弹性模量弹性模量 (Pa.s) The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved12当体系含有当体系含有0.05%的盐时，在高或低的剪切速率下，卡波的盐时，在高或低的剪切速率下，卡波聚合物聚合物 表现出不同的流变行为：含耐离子性较强的聚合表现出不同的流变行为：含耐离子性较强的聚合物的凝胶体系拥有更高的抵抗形变的能力。物的凝胶体系拥有更高的抵抗形变的能力。Carbopol Ultrez 20 聚合物显示了相对较硬的弹性结构聚合物显示了相对较硬的弹性结构无论剪切速率的高低，它都表现出较

11、慢的形变反应。无论剪切速率的高低，它都表现出较慢的形变反应。Carbopol Ultrez 10和和Carbopol Ultrez 21聚合物表现为相对较低的粘聚合物表现为相对较低的粘度度无论剪切速率的高低，两者都对剪切表现为较高的形变。无论剪切速率的高低，两者都对剪切表现为较高的形变。Carbopol 980和和934聚合物在聚合物在应力的动态振荡下表现出了弹性应力的动态振荡下表现出了弹性相对相对Carbopol Ultrez 10和和21聚合物而言，它们拥有更长的弹性聚合物而言，它们拥有更长的弹性模量保持时间。模量保持时间。 The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, a

12、ll rights reserved13HSD95*有显著不同* The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved14最初涂抹最初涂抹涂后肤感涂后肤感HighLowIntensity(Average Rank) The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved15数据由数据由专家小组排序法而来专家小组排序法而来Light Heavy Wet Watery CreamyQuick Break Long Playtime Ultrez 10 Ultrez 21 980 Ultrez 20Ultr

13、ez 10 Ultrez 21 980 Ultrez 20CarbopolCarbopol Polymers PolymersUltrez 10 = Carbopol Ultrez 10 polymerUltrez 21 = Carbopol Ultrez 21 polymer980 = Carbopol 980 polymerUltrez 20 = Carbopol Ultrez 20 polymer The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved16Carbopol Ultrez 20聚合物提供奢华、厚稠的肤感，适用于感聚合物提供奢华、

14、厚稠的肤感，适用于感觉丰厚、富有弹性，非水感的凝胶配方。觉丰厚、富有弹性，非水感的凝胶配方。Carbopol Ultrez 10和和 and and Carbopol Ultrez 21聚合物在最初的涂聚合物在最初的涂抹时能提供十分清新的肤感，适用于清爽型配方。抹时能提供十分清新的肤感，适用于清爽型配方。 Carbopol 980聚合物的肤感介于上述两者之间，在最初涂抹聚合物的肤感介于上述两者之间，在最初涂抹时拥有轻微的时拥有轻微的弹性并且肤感滑爽。适用于中等或偏向感觉弹性并且肤感滑爽。适用于中等或偏向感觉丰厚的配方，同时用后不粘腻。丰厚的配方，同时用后不粘腻。 The Lubrizol Co

15、rporation 2008, all rights reserved The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved18Part Trade NameINCI% weightACarbopol Ultrez 10 polymerCarbomer0.40 Carbopol Ultrez 20 polymerAcrylates C10-C30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 0.75 Carbopol Ultrez 21 polymerAcrylates C10-C30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspoly

16、mer 0.38 Carbopol 940 polymerCarbomer 0.30 Carbopol 980 polymerCarbomer 0.40 Carbopol 934 polymerCarbomer 0.50Deionized Water Q.S. to 100BC1215 Alkyl BenzoateC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate10.0010.0010.0010.0010.0010.00Cremophor A6Ceteareth-6 and Stearyl Alcohol1.801.801.801.801.801.80CremophorA25Ceteareth-25

17、1.201.201.201.201.201.20CTEA (99%)TriethanolamineQS to pH = 6.0 6.5DGlydant Plus LiquidDMDM Hydantoin (&) Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate0.400.400.400.400.400.40 The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved19Carbopol Ultrez 20U10 = Carbopol Ultrez 10 polymerU20 = Carbopol Ultrez 20 polymerU21

18、= Carbopol Ultrez 21 polymer940 = Carbopol 940 polymer980 = Carbopol 980 polymer934 = Carbopol 934 polymer The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved200.10001.00010.00100.01000shear rate (1/s)0.10001.00010.00100.01000Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer + NaCl Carbopol Ultrez 20 Polymer + NaClCarbopol

19、Ultrez 21 Polymer + NaCl Carbopol 940Polymer + NaCl Carbopol980 Polymer + NaCl Carbopol934 Polymer + NaCl 0.10001.00010.00100.01000shear rate (1/s)0.10001.00010.00100.01000Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer Carbopol Ultrez 20 PolymerCarbopol Ultrez 21 PolymerCarbopol 940 polymerCarbopol 980 polymerCarbopol

20、934 Polymer几乎类似的几乎类似的流变曲线流变曲线不同的不同的流变曲线流变曲线Viscosity (PaS)Viscosity (PaS) The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved21Carbopol Ultrez 20Without NaClWith 0.05 wt% NaCl The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved22HSD95* The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved23最初涂抹最初涂抹涂后肤感涂后

21、肤感HighLowIntensity(Average Rating) The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved24Light Heavy Wet Watery CreamyQuick Break Long Playtime Ultrez 10 Ultrez 21 980 Ultrez 20Carbopol PolymersUltrez 10 = Carbopol Ultrez 10 polymerUltrez 21 = Carbopol Ultrez 21 polymer980 = Carbopol 980 polymerUltrez

22、 20 = Carbopol Ultrez 20 polymerLight HeavyLow residual feel High residual feel Non-lingering afterfeel Lingering afterfeelUltrez 10 980 Ultrez 21 Ultrez 20Carbopol Polymers最初至中期涂抹阶段最初至中期涂抹阶段涂抹中期到涂后肤感阶段涂抹中期到涂后肤感阶段数据由专家小组打分法而来数据由专家小组打分法而来 The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved25在相对复杂的乳液体系

23、中，卡波聚合物仍旧能够提供不同在相对复杂的乳液体系中，卡波聚合物仍旧能够提供不同的肤感影响的肤感影响Carbopol Ultrez 20聚合物聚合物提供奢华、丰厚的涂抹感，拥提供奢华、丰厚的涂抹感，拥有较重的涂后肤感。有较重的涂后肤感。Carbopol Ultrez 21聚合物聚合物提供轻质溶化般的涂抹感，以提供轻质溶化般的涂抹感，以及中等到清爽的涂后肤感。及中等到清爽的涂后肤感。Carbopol Ultrez 10聚合物聚合物提供清新、易抹开的涂抹感，提供清新、易抹开的涂抹感，以及清爽的涂后肤感。以及清爽的涂后肤感。Carbopol 980聚合物聚合物提供轻质、滋润的涂抹感，以及丝提供轻质、

24、滋润的涂抹感，以及丝滑的涂后肤感。滑的涂后肤感。 The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved凝胶及乳液体系 The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved27粘着感粘着感 Cohesiveness*将产品放在两指之间，分开两指的力量感越大，粘着感越强。*临界屈服应力临界屈服应力 定义：最小的能使体系产生流动的应力。屈服应力越高，配方的粘着感越强。（Yield Stress vs. Cohesiveness） The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rig

25、hts reserved28Carbopol Polymers Yield Stress (Pa.)(with NaCl)Cohesiveness (Mean)Ultrez 100.01561.05Ultrez 210.02302.009400.03233.759800.03684.509340.03894.63Ultrez 200.04234.87粘着感高的凝胶更趋于粘在一起，要求更高的屈服应力粘着感高的凝胶更趋于粘在一起，要求更高的屈服应力来破解凝胶的结构。来破解凝胶的结构。 The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved29粘度粘度流

26、体在剪切应力下抵抗形变产生的能力。通常被理解为厚度或对流动的抵抗程度。厚稠感厚稠感( (粘稠度粘稠度) )涂抹时在手指和皮肤间能感受到的产品的量。感受的到量越高，产品厚稠感越强。数值越低，产品感觉相对清爽，容易涂抹。 The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved30Carbopol Polymers Max. Vis.( PaS)(Near Zero)With NaClCushion(Mean-Rating)Ultrez 10349.03.34Ultrez 21475.63.85940130.33.48980270.43.82934186

27、.23.80Ultrez 20713.85.05Max. Viscosity (PaS) (Low Shear Rate)乳液丰厚的涂抹感觉一般来自于乳液丰厚的涂抹感觉一般来自于产品产品最初的厚度最初的厚度和对剪切变稀的抵抗力。和对剪切变稀的抵抗力。 The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved31卡波聚合物极大的影响了凝胶或乳液配方的流变性能和感卡波聚合物极大的影响了凝胶或乳液配方的流变性能和感官表现；不同的卡波聚合物能提供不同的肤感和涂抹时的官表现；不同的卡波聚合物能提供不同的肤感和涂抹时的流变特征。流变特征。虽然乳液产品中的其它成分

28、对其整体的肤感有影响，但基虽然乳液产品中的其它成分对其整体的肤感有影响，但基于卡波聚合物建立起来的流变性能和感官表现的联系对于于卡波聚合物建立起来的流变性能和感官表现的联系对于乳液和凝胶都能成立。乳液和凝胶都能成立。这些能够联系涂抹时的流变性能和感官表现的初步结果可这些能够联系涂抹时的流变性能和感官表现的初步结果可以帮助配方师选择正确的卡波聚合物来满足凝胶或乳液配以帮助配方师选择正确的卡波聚合物来满足凝胶或乳液配方的基本肤感要求。方的基本肤感要求。 The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved The Lubrizol Corporati

29、on 2008, all rights reserved33项目概述项目概述: :开发两个含有植物活性及美白成分的配方，其市场宣称如下：清爽的补水乳液，能很快的涂抹开，白天使用，作为护肤乳液或爽肤水。护肤乳液精华素，涂抹时间较长，最初的涂抹感为中等偏向较为丰富的不粘腻的感觉。作为晚霜使用，提供修复及滋养的护肤作用。要求条件要求条件: :两个配方含有等量的传统中药成分。采用等量的卡波聚合物成分。产品的目标规格：pH 5.5粘度 12,00018,000 mPaS The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved34Refreshing Skin

30、 Hydrator F0078 (AP)Refreshing Skin Hydrator F0078 (AP)INCI NameINCI NameTrade NameTrade NameFunctionFunction%Weight%WeightSpecificationSpecificationA1.Deionized water Diluent89.41pH 5.25-5.752.Disodium EDTAChelating Agent0.02Viscosity (mPas) S# 612,000-18,0003Carbomer Carbopol Ultrez 10 PolymerRheo

31、logy Modifier0.35Yield Value(dyn/cm2)500-7004.Methyl gluceth-20Glucam E-20 humectantHumectant1.00StabilityPassed (45C/25C/5 freeze-thaw cycles)B5.Neopentyl glycol diethylhexanoate Schercemol NGDO esterEmollient3.006.Dimethicone (and) cetearyl dimethicone crosspolymer (Velvesil DM)Velvesil DMFilm For

32、mer0.307.Methyl glucose sesquistearate Glucate SS emulsifierEmulsifier0.258.PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate Glucamate SSE-20 emulsifierEmulsifier0.759.BHTAntioxidant0.02C10.Sodium hydroxide (18%)Neutralizer0.40*D11.Glycyrrhiza glabra (licorice) root extract, propylene glycol, waterExtrapone Lic

33、orice Root 607646Botanical: Skin Brightener0.4012.Chrysanthemum indicum flower extract,propylene glycol, water Extrapone Wild ChrysanthemumBotanical: Calming0.3013.Lonicera japonica (honeysuckle) flower extract, propylene glycol, waterExtrapone HoneysuckleBotanical: Soothing0.3014.Deionized waterDil

34、uent3.00E15Phenoxyehthanol, methy-,Ethyl-,Butyl-,Propyl-, (and) IsobutylparabenPhenonipPreservative0.50 The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved35Hydrating Nighttime Facial Serum F- 0082(AP)Hydrating Nighttime Facial Serum F- 0082(AP)INCI NameINCI NameTrade NameTrade NameFunctionFunction%W

35、eight%WeightSpecificationSpecificationA1.Deionized water Diluent89.41pH 5.25-5.752.Disodium EDTAChelating Agent0.02Viscosity (mPas) S# 614,000-18,0003Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerCarbopol Ultrez 20 PolymerRheology Modifier0.35Yield Value(dyn/cm2)720-9004.Methyl gluceth-20Glucam E-20 h

36、umectantHumectant1.00StabilityPassed (45C/25C/5 freeze-thaw cycles)B5.Neopentyl glycol diethylhexanoateSchercemol NGDO esterEmollient3.006.Dimethicone (and) cetearyl dimethicone crosspolymer (Velvesil DM)Velvesil DMFilm Former0.307.Methyl glucose sesquistearateGlucate SS emulsifierEmulsifier0.258.PE

37、G-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate Glucamate SSE-20 emulsifierEmulsifier0.759.BHTAntioxidant0.02C10.Sodium hydroxide (18%)Neutralizer0.40*D11.Glycyrrhiza glabra (licorice) root extract, propylene glycol, waterExtrapone Licorice Root ExtractBotanical: Skin Brightener0.4012.Chrysanthemum indicum flowe

38、r extract,propylene glycol, water Extrapone Wild Chrysanthemum Botanical: Calming0.3013.Lonicera japonica (honeysuckle) flower extract, propylene glycol, waterExtrapone Honeysuckle Botanical: Soothing0.3014.Deionized waterDiluent3.00E15Phenoxyethanol, methy-,Ethyl-,Butyl-,Propyl-, (and) Isobutylpara

39、ben (Phenonip)PhenonipPreservative0.50 The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved360.10001.00010.00100.01000shear rate (1/s)0.10001.00010.00100.01000viscosity (Pas) Refreshing skin hydrator Hydrating sleep-on serum霜肤水含Carbopol Ultrez 10 polymer剪切变稀，易涂抹，粘度较低，感觉更为清新。精华素含Carbopol Ultrez 20 poly

40、mer较高的粘度，剪切变稀，厚稠的肤感Slight increase in viscosityfurther signifies increase in resistance (richness)With 0.05 wt%NaCl The Lubrizol Corporation 2008, all rights reserved37AcknowledgmentAcknowledgmentl Dan Hasmanl Liu Xinl Christina Hel Kwe Sung Tjol Jeff Careyl Gary Yaol Rain Shen The Lubrizol Corporat

41、ion 2008, all rights reserved38Allusion is a trademark of Antaria Ltd.Arlacel and Brij are trademarks of Croda Inc.Carbopol, and Noveon are registered trademarks of The Lubrizol Corporation.Glucam, Glucate,Glucamate, Promulgen, and Schercemol are trademarks of The Lubrizol Corporation.Cremophor is r

42、egistered trademark of BASF Corporation.Dow Corning is a registered trademark of Dow Corning Corporation.Extrapone is a registered trademark of Symrise CompanyGlydant Plus is a registered trademark of Lonza Group Ltd.Keltrol is a registered trademark of Huber CompanyLiposphere is a trademark of Lipo Technologies Inc.Merquat is a registered trademark of Nalco CompanyNaturechem is a registered trademark of Vertellus Performance Inc.Phenonip is a registered trademark of Clariant CompanyTimiron is a registered trademark of Merck KGaA. The