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1、毕设附件 外文文献翻译 原文及译文原文the cr eative r ole of sour ces of inspir a tion in clothing design 作者martin gintr oductionsources of inspiration and its personal interpretation, visually and technically, play an important role in the design process, in increasing creativity. clothing design studies and the crea

2、tive role of design inspiration, during the early informal and actual clothing design processes is open to scientific investigation like aesthetically driven designs in other domains.studying creative fashion design as process and product is seen more problematic than other design-led industries, as

3、 the interaction between the design elements and principles, material properties, adaptation and modification of design inspiration are complex. clothing design, as a variety of aesthetic and functional design processes, shares many characteristics of engineering design process.research and observat

4、ion are critically important in the fashion business. by researching and observing, designers gather background information for design, including studying current and future fashion trends and try to predict what the majority of their customers will want in the foreseeable future. in order to keep u

5、p with the changing world of fashion, fashion awareness should become second nature to every clothing designer.design and clothing a s a visual and tactile sensor y designit is well known that design is two things: process and product, as verb and noun. as design problem solution process, it is rese

6、arching, setting the source of inspiration, planning, organizing to meet a goal, carrying out according to a particular purpose and creating. as product it is the end result, an intended arrangement that is the outcome of that process or plan.clothing is an example of applied design, even the most e

7、xciting, original idea must show awareness of its practical purpose and environment. we realise that some art is pure, art for arts sake but most creations in the daily world are for a practicalpurpose and use. design as process is planning to meet a goal, and thus applies to everything intentionall

8、y created for a purpose. the steps and order of the process are essentially the same regardless of the end product. these steps are very similar to management as a planning process.design as man made product and service falls into two major categories: sensory and behavioural. sensory design is perc

9、eived through the senses, and is classified as visual, auditory, olfactory, tactile and gustatory. behavioural design is planned action. many products, however, include aspects of both, because design may be perceived through the senses and then interpreted behaviourally. a fashion show, for example

10、, include both sensory and behavioural designs.r esear ch methodology and findingsthe importance of source of inspiration and their role in creative clothing design has been little understood and, therefore, rarely received attention in this industry. 6, 7, 8 eckert and stacey (1998, 2000, 2003) stu

11、died knitwear design case, which shares many characteristics of complex engineering projects and as an example of practical design in a fast moving and highly competitive manufacturing industry. their work included a large ethnographic study of the knitwear industry, which produced a detailed design

12、 process model and an analysis of the causes of communication problems within design teams. 15 mkirinne-croft et al. (1996) tried to explain the fashion design process in terms of quantum mechanics and psychoanalysis and see design creativity as the ultimate mystery; their description of the design

13、process is simplistic.the author has undertaken a progressive series of empirical studies, based on observation and interviews, looking at ready-to-wear (rtw) clothing design; in situ observation, semi-structured interviews and constrained and semi-constrained design tasks. this empiric approach com

14、bines ethnographic observational methods with the knowledge analysis techniques of artificial intelligence. it is effective in situations where conventional knowledge acquisition methods are insufficient, when broad understanding of an industry is needed as in the fashion industry, not just a case s

15、tudy of a single individual or company.in this research, the creative role of sources of inspiration in visual clothing design by novice and expert clothing designers was assessed through empirical research. as subjects, 16 talented clothing designers, 11 university-level fashion design students in

16、fashion design department at dokuz eylul university and five professional designers participated in the experiment carried out in this research. the first group of subjects included advanced fashion design students, seven talented students selected from the third and fourth year of undergraduate stu

17、dies, and also four students of postgraduate studies, who also works as a free lance or part time assistant designers in the clothing industry. the second group was composed of five professional designers with a minimum of 5 years of experience in clothing industry. sour ces of inspir a tion in clot

18、hing designwhere does the fashion designer get ideas and inspiration for new styles? the answer is everywhere and everything. anything visual and tactile, in fact sensual, can be a source of inspiration for a garment. through television, the designer experiences all the wonders of the entertainment

19、world. in films, the designer is exposed to the influences of all the arts, and lifestyles throughout the world. because consumers are exposed to movies through international distribution, films prime their audiences to accept new fashions inspired by the costumes. museum exhibits, art shows, world

20、happenings, expositions, theatres, music, dance and world travel are all sources of design inspiration to fashion designers. the fashions of the past are also a rich source of design inspiration. w hile always alert to the new and exciting, fashion designers never lose sight of the past, they use ol

21、d things in new ways.as stated the inspiration for a garment within a collection or for an entire collection can come from an infinite variety of sources. sources of inspiration are often linked to the social spirit of the times also called the zeitgeist. understanding the state of current fashion a

22、nd searching for ideas and sources of inspiration involves looking at art objects and books, going on trips to places like paris and milan, visiting museums, watching people on streets and going on country walks. designers are most creative when they are directly exposed to the sources of ideas.on t

23、he other hand, it has been observed in the fashion industry that there are two fundamental approaches in the creative clothing design processes:(1) material, thus fabric, inspired clothing design process; and(2) conceptual clothing design process, such as several themes originated from the universe

24、of arts, nature or products.it is known that the high-fashion name designers typically develop a concept, also called theme, for their collection in order to be more creative and original.the major types of idea sources in design-led industries are previous products, artifacts, natural objects and p

25、henomena. in case of clothing design, garments, fabrics and trims as previous products, play an important role in sources of inspiration. although, there is a broad recognition that much of the design proceeds by modification of previous ideas, in case of fabric inspired clothing design, designers s

26、earch for new forms and styles with newly developed or invented materials. for example, the development of elasthen fabrics, such as lycra, inspired designers to figure-hugging silhouettes.c onclusionsanything visual and tactile, in fact sensual, can be a source of inspiration in fashion design. des

27、ign ideas do not simply materialize out of thin air. first, the designer does careful research, but what makes a designers collection special and original is his or her unique interpretation of design sources. therefore, in order to be more creative and original the sources of inspiration play an im

28、portant role in clothing design.research and awareness are the key to creativity. designers must learn most of all to keep their eyes open, to develop their skills of observation, to absorb visual ideas, blend them and translate them into clothes that their customers will like. the design process sh

29、ows that realistic observation of outside influences and needs, extensive research and awareness and logical thinking and order, remove a great deal of the supposed mystery of design or creativity. one who thoroughly understands design as product and process and has mastered the use of appropriate m

30、aterials and adaptation techniques can be creative and can translate the source into reality as asuccessful fashion product.sources of inspiration are used at the early stages of design and throughout the entire design process. from the findings of this research, the role of sources of inspiration i

31、n clothing design can be summarised as follows:- increasing originality and creativity;- making the design process easy;- deriving harmonious colour schemes directly;- maintaining harmony and uniformity of the collection;- deriving technical acumen from products inspired, especially from previous ga

32、rments;- understanding the fashion appropriation of the season; and- drawing the borders for the design framework.创意性服装设计研究 作者:马丁引言灵感的来源及其个体性、可见性和技术性,这些对提高设计过程中的创造力 方面起着重要的作用。服装设计研究和设计灵感的创造性,早期非正式的和实际 的服装设计流程是开放性的,就像其他领域中以美学为导向的设计。学习创意型服装设计, 其流程和产品比其他设计驱动的行业存在更多的问 题,设计元素、原则、面料的特性等设计灵感之间的交互关系是很复杂的。服装

33、 设计,包含各种各样的视觉审美和功能设计流程、甚至共享工程设计过程中的许 多设计元素。对时尚服装业进行研究和观察是至关重要的。通过研究和观察,设计师可以 收集背景资料,包括研究当前和未来的时尚服装设计潮流,并试图预测大多数客 户所希望的设计风格。为了跟上不断变化的时尚服装设计,时尚意识应成为每一 个服装设计师的第二天性。服装设计是一个包含视觉和触觉的感官设计众所周知,设计包括两件事情: 工艺创造过程和产品展示,这两者之间的关系就好比动词和名词的关系。作为一个设计问题解决方案的过程, 它是灵感的来源,并通过计划、组织以实现一个最终目标。而产品是其计划的、最终设计的结 果。服装就是应用设计的一个例

34、子,即使是最激动人心的、最初的构想也必须向 人们展示其实用目的。虽然我们已经意识到一些艺术是纯粹的,即“艺术至上艺 术”,但是,世界上大多数艺术作品设计的最初目的都在于其实用性。设计作为 一个工艺过程,应当考虑和计划实现某一特定的目标,并适时进行创新。从本质 上讲,设计过程的步骤与顺序同样应当考虑产品的实用性。这些步骤与管理规划 的过程非常相似。人为设计的产品和服务可以分为两大部类:感觉和行为。感官设计是通过感 官而获得的,可以将其分为视觉、听觉、嗅觉、触觉和味觉的获得。行为设计是 有计划的行动。然而,许多产品的创作过程都包括感官设计与行为设计两个方面, 因为设计灵感需要通过感官获得并通过行为

35、来解释。例如,一场时装表演既包括 感觉设计也包括行为设计。研究方法和研究结果 人们对创意性灵感的来源及其在创意服装设计中的重要性一直知之甚少,因此,这个行业也很少得到人们的关注。埃克特和斯泰西研究了针织品设计的案例, 这一类的服装设计参考借鉴了很多复杂的工程设计中的设计元素和设计思路。例 如:快速变化和高度竞争的制造业中的“实用设计”。在他们的设计工作中,很 多内容都涉及到针织行业的大量研究,而本研究开发制作一个详细的设计过程模 型,以及分析了设计团队内部的沟通问题。马卡尼等人试图解释量子力学和心理 分析在时尚服装设计过程中的应用,以探索创意性设计的终极奥秘。他们深入浅 出的描述了设计过程。本

36、文进行了一系列的实证研究,主要是通过观察和访谈。实地调研、半结构 化访谈和半驱动型设计的研究方法,因此来探索成衣服装设计。这种将理论和实 际调研相结合的实证研究方法,可以有效的使用在传统的知识获取方法不足的情 况下,不过在研究中,要特别需要广泛地了解一个行业,比如:时尚界,不只是 要对单个人或公司进行实证研究,要尽可能选择更多的案例进行研究。特别是在 传统的知识获取方法不足的情况下,它是可以得到有效的应用,不过需要指出的是,特别需要对一个行业进行一个广泛地了解,比如:时尚界,不只是要对单个人或公司进行实证研究,要尽可能选择更多的案例进行研究。 在本研究中,服装设计过程中的创造性设计灵感,主要来

37、源于那些刚开始从事设计工作的新手设计师,他们还没有形成固定的思维,因此,有许多新的不受 拘束的想法,这是服装设计灵感的一大来,此外一些服装设计专家,他们对实现 需求和消费者的偏好有着敏锐的观察力,因此,可以有针对性的提出新的设计思 路,这对创新性服装设计而言,也是很重要的。当然,是否真实如此,需要进行 一系列的实证研究来证实。我们特意选择了16个优秀的服装设计师,11个时装设 计专业在读学生,和五个专业的设计师,参与实证研究。将他们分为几个考察一 组,第一组,主要是那些高级时装设计专业的在读学生,还有七个有才华的大三 和大四学生,还有四名服装设计研究生,他们平时都是在一些服装设计公司实习。 第二组则是由在服装行业的五个专业设计师组成,他们都至少有5年的服装设计 经验。服装设计的灵感来源服装设计师从哪里获得新款式设计的构想和灵感呢? 答案即灵感无处不在。 实际上,任何视觉和触觉上的感官体验都可以是服装设计灵感的源泉。通过电视, 设计师可以体验五彩缤纷的全球娱乐世界。在看电影的过程中,设计师则能感受 世界各地的艺术与生活方式。通过国际经销,电影观众可以通过有设计灵感的服 装接受新时尚。博物馆展品、艺术节目展示、世界事件、博览会、剧院、音乐、 舞蹈和旅游都是时装设计师的设计灵感来源。过去的时尚也是他们一个丰富的设 计灵感来源

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